October 2021, Castle Valley Utah.
Kyle, Brian and I find ourselves in Andrea and Jay’s kitchen after breakfast talking about the next big climb. The view of Castle Valley behind us silently calls our attention. We ask Andrea about climbing Castleton. Andrea’s eyes lit up, “Do it!”. We discuss the logistics for the approach to the base of Castleton and the route, North Chimney. It was late in the morning already for a semi big objective like this, but we were excited and determined. The approach to the base alone takes an hour, if you know where you are going. Andrea gave us as much information as she could while still leaving some “adventure” for us to figure out on our own. We set off in the midday sun with two headlamps in tow for three people.
When we finally reached the base of the route, there was a line to get on the route, we were shocked! Of course it’s a popular tower and a popular route, but we were getting a late start, midweek! The group in front of us was a guided group and the two climbers being guided were painfully slow. We tried to stay warm and fueled ourselves with snacks and water while we waited for our turn. The group finally made it to the first belay and it appeared the lead climber was well on his way through the next pitch. We figured we waited long enough and we could finally start our ascent.
Kyle started up the climb with two ropes, one for himself and me, the other for Brian to climb on. The idea for two ropes is that Brian and I could safely climb at the same time (one on each rope). The first pitch was done quickly by Kyle and he yelled down that we were on belay. My heart started racing, finally we get to climb this monstrous tower! Brian let me start climbing second and gave me a head start before he started up as well.
Getting off the ground was tough, so many people have climbed this route the rock was quite smooth and void of friction. I struggled, over-gripped and probably fell a time or two. But I was determined to keep going and I eventually made it to the belay stance with Kyle. Brian was still on his way to us so Kyle belayed and I enjoyed the view.
I looked across the saddle to another rock formation named The Rectory. Another popular tower route was facing me, Fine Jade. I watched as tiny little dots (climbers) made their way up and up. Finally I looked at the summit of the Rectory and noticed a figure in white standing with a few others. “Oh my gosh, someone is getting married on top of Fine Jade!” I exclaimed. Kyle and Brian looked over and we all admired the site.
The North Chimney route, faces North as one might guess, which means we were in the shade the entire time. The wind was also whipping around this small tower in the middle of the desert, it was getting cold. Luckily I had on a long sleeve wool shirt; Kyle and Brian only had on cotton t-shirts. Kyle stayed mostly warm climbing, then belaying two people up at once. Brian was shivering at belay stances as he patiently waited for Kyle and then me to climb.
Pitch by pitch we made our way up, at the end of each pith we had to pause and wait for the group in front of us to climb through. The belay ledges between pitches were not very spacious, there was no way 6 people could fit at any one ledge. Most the time it was cramped for the three of us for the few minutes it took us to exchange gear before Kyle setoff again. The climbing itself was precarious with slick calcite, polished sandstone, and loose flakes and rocks galore. We each had to pick our way carefully so as not to send rocks crashing down onto each other.
Up we went shivering at each belay stance and chatting happily when we were all together periodically. Finally we had one pitch to go and Kyle was cruising it! Brian and I heard the “Off Belay!” and shortly after the “Kelly and Brian, you’re on belay.” This is it, the fourth and final pitch.
The first few moves out of the belay stance were awkward and I desperately did not want to fall. “How did Kyle lead this” I think to myself. With polished calcite on the right and little to no handholds or footholds on the left I didn’t know what to do. Finally I made a few stemming moves, pressed out on all four limbs with all the strength I had and I was through a crux. The crack opened to a wide funnel towards the top, I felt SO exposed. Exposure is my kryptonite whilst climbing.
But this was the last pitch, there was no going down, only up. Brian tried to encourage me from below as he noticed me slowing down. His words didn’t help too much so I started my own self-talk, “You can do this, you’re fine, you’re just climbing” became my mantra. Over and over I repeated this words out loud to myself. Eventually I had enough courage to make a few easy (exposed) moves and I was clear of the exposed danger. I had been so involved in my own climbing I forgot to tell Brian he could start. “Sorry Brian, you can climb now” I shouted down as I clambered my way up to Kyle and the summit. Brian quickly followed, cleaning all the remaining gear and met us at the top.
We did it! We were at the top of Castleton Tower, our first tower! To top it all off, the sun was setting and it was a glorious view. We celebrated with some high fives, exultations, photos and signing the summit register. We explored the summit which was the size of a small dining room and enjoyed the view. Finally I told the guys we should start our way back down, we had a ways to go yet and only two headlamps.
Two rappels got us to the base of the tower. Then we had the long tenuous hike from the saddle to the base of the formation. This section had a lot of loose rock and sand and I was anxious to get through it before the sun went down. Kyle and I had trekking poles but Brian did not, and they were a life saver! We made it through the difficult part with the last remaining light of the day. It was so dark we finally turned on our headlamps. Brian and I had one each so Kyle either walked in front or in the middle of us so he could sort of see where he was going. We were cruising through the hike, reliving the climb and enjoying the beautiful night. Until we came to a wash section that I didn’t quite remember.
I thought we were lost and didn’t 100% investigate the terrain. We backtracked to a spot we all agreed was for sure the trail, then tried to move forward again, we ended at the same spot. Next we tried a game trail that went a different direction. Up a hill through loose rock, with no real way down the other side, where we wanted to go. Back again to the spot we knew was the trail, and we followed it the to cliffed out section. Kyle took the headlamp from me and inspected the edge of the “cliff” closer. There was a clear path down with a few easy steps. I was elated we had found the trail, but also embarrassed that I caused us more work and worry. We were never lost, I just misremembered the trail and didn’t get close enough to see the path down!
There was still 20/30 minutes of hiking to do but it all went smoothly from there. We drove back to Andrea and Jay’s where Andrea was waiting for us with a huge smile on her face. She had been watching headlamps descend the tower and was hoping it wasn’t us. We told her we had made it down the tower in the light, and then shared with her our “turnaround” in the wash story. We spent the rest of the night talking about the climb up Castleton and what our next objective would be.