Adventures with Kelly and Kyle

One morning Kyle, Brian and I found ourselves climbing across from the Colorado River. We were finding and climbing all the climbs in the shade we could find as the sun was hot! As it was a weekday and not a busy weekend, we were finally able to climb the super popular moderate route Men in Tights. Most guided groups and clinics love to climb this route and the ones next to it for the ease of access and moderate grades (rightly so). Kyle Brian and I had so much fun climbing this route it had such fun movement! Then, the clouds came in and the rain started. No more climbing for the day. We headed into town and when we had service found out that our friend Nina and her boyfriend Dean were in town as well!

Kyle and I met Nina a few months ago in the Black Hills and spent a few days climbing with her and Abraham. We were excited to meet up again! We met at a local BBQ, had some delicious food and caught up. Next thing we knew, we were making plans to go to Indian Creek in a day or two when the rock dried out from the rain. We all ran errands as necessary and stocked up on food and water for the next week or so. While Kyle and I were at the grocery store we ran into another climbing friend. This time it was our friend Andy from MN. We were completely surprised to see him in Utah! He was on his way to Indian Creek as well so we told him he could join our group. Nina and Dean were in a van, Abraham has a rooftop tent on his Jeep, Brian living out of his Subaru and now Andy who was living out of his Honda.

The caravan hit the road south to Indian Creek. Kyle and I could barely contain our excitement as we descended into the valley. We stopped at the Battle of the Bulge parking area and geared up for a climb. We started off on some warm-up routes, Railroad Tracks 5.10 and Unnamed Flake, 5.10 70′. I was very anxious to climb Railroad Tracks again because I really struggled to climb it the last time I was here. Kyle danced up the route making it look easy. I had my tape gloves on and was ready to go up. I tried my hardest and the climb didn’t seem that bad at all. I had an absolute ball climbing it! There was no need to be anxious at all, what a relief.

After our warm-ups we made our way to the classic Crack Attack. Of course there was a lineup waiting to climb it. Instead Dean found an Off-Width climb he wanted to do nearby, one that would take his Big Bro (cylindrical piece of protection). Nobody else wanted to climb that one, so Kyle cleaned the route for Dean. Up next Dean found another off-width, Dogs in Space to climb. Nina tried this one but didn’t quite make it. Kyle ended up cleaning that one too. While this was happening Crack Attack opened up and Brian was stoked to jump on it. I belayed him on his valiant efforts. He tried and tried and took some big falls which I caught. Finally he threw in the towel and Kyle romped up Crack Attack to end the day. We were all extremely pleased with how the day went.

The next day we went to Supercrack Buttress and jumped on an all time favorite of mine, Twin Cracks. Kyle and Brian both climbed it and I climbed on top rope. I then got the courage to try leading it. I rehearsed the moves on top rope again, and made sure Kyle left a cam at the crux near the top for me. Then I tied into the sharp end and started up with Kyle belaying me. Boy did the climb feel harder! I placed more cams than needed thereby wasting more energy but giving my mental game a little boost. Finally I was at the crux, I clipped into the piece Kyle left for me and hesitated. Kyle shouting encouragement gave me the urge to try and finish the climb and a few moves later I was at the chains! What a glorious accomplishment. I don’t lead routes very often but it’s something I want to work on so this was a big step in the right direction!

At camp that night we made plans to climb the Pistol Whipped area the next day. To get there we had miles and miles to drive on wash-boarded dirt roads – not too pleasant with your house on wheels. We forded a few rivers and made it to the parking area. Luckily our cupboards and drawers did not spill out their contents on the drive like what happened to Nina and Dean. We all geared up and headed up toward the cliff. First route of the day we got on Dusty Trails to Nowhere, 5.10 an absolutely beautiful crack and a great warmup for the day. Then Kyle, Brian and I hopped on Coyne Crack Simulator, 5.11. This one tired me out for a while so I took a break and belayed Kyle and Brian on Wounded Knee 5.10.

After those climbs I plucked up enough courage to try and lead a route again. The perfect route was on this wall for me to lead: Short and Stupid, hand crack 25 feet tall. Kyle climbed it, I top roped it, then I lead it. I put in way too many cams, I think I placed 5 over the span of 25 feet. Normally people place protection 6-10 feet apart. But I made it up and had fun! Nina lead it after me. Then Abraham who had never lead a traditional route before also climbed it and he maybe placed 2 or 3 cams. I was very nervous watching him. But we all made it and had a blast! Short and Stupid deserves to be renamed. Kyle and I climbed a route next to Short and Stupid called Skidmarks. Skidmarks starts with thin fingertips liebacking into a bulge with some polished calcite feet. Kyle made it up brilliantly and I fell my way up cleaning it for him. We both had so much fun!

There was one classic left on everyone’s list, Spaghetti Western. This is one of the longer routes on the crag with a variety of crack sizes. I belayed Brian as he started up into the crack. He climbed his way to the top and setup a toprope for all who wanted to climb it. Abraham, Andy and Kyle all climbed the route. It was getting to be late in the day so Andy ended up climbing it in the dark. I was getting cold so I walked back down to the van and watched the headlight progress from the parking area. This was definitely the highlight route of the day for those guys. Kyle wants to get back and lead it some day and I wouldn’t mind having another go at Short and Stupid.

Another route, another day.

For more pictures of our climbing in Utah check out the photo gallery: https://adventureswithkk.com/?page_id=210