We went to Yosemite National Park. Finally after years of climbing rock around the U.S. we made a trip to the climbing mecca, Yosemite National Park. Late October 2022 we pulled into the Valley for the very first time. We were meeting Taylor and Alexia at a sport climbing crag, they had been in the Valley before and were willing to show us around.
The next day it rained so Kyle and I took a hike to Glacier Point from Yosemite Valley. Most years there is a road that goes to this spot, but this year it was closed. The hike to the top is 4.8 miles one way and gains over 3,000 feet of elevation. We put on our rain jackets and packed some water and snacks to go on a hike. From the valley floor to the top and had an amazing view of Yosemite.
We marveled at Half Dome creating it’s own weather.
We were rained on and hailed for a short period but the weather only created a fun environment to hike in.
Climbing
Eventually we were able to snag a campsite at the iconic Camp 4 Campground. After watching and rewatching a climbing documentary, Valley Uprising we were very excited to be camping here. Sleeping in your vehicles is not allowed at Camp 4 so we setup camp and stayed in our tent during our stay. We explored the valley floor, climbed a few classic routes and enjoyed checking out a new park.
I was so intimidated to climb in the Valley. It’s known for big wall climbing, routes that take most people days to complete. Which means living on the wall for the entire time, hundreds, then thousands of feet off the ground. I’m still afraid of heights and it terrified me to think about not touching the ground for days. Not to mention the years of historic badasses climbing and living in the Valley for months. I felt almost as if I didn’t belong. Who was I to stand and climb where all these legends cut their teeth back in the day? Eventually I reminded myself I had the same right as any to climb here. The Valley has an extra atmosphere to it, one of grand adventure. We weren’t planning on climbing any big walls but the big walls surrounded us, imposing and always watching.
I slowly got used to the rock and style of climbing here. We started with a few single pitch routes then worked our way slowly up to some moderate 3 pitchers.
A favorite outing for the both of us was a trip up Central Pillar of Frenzy a 5 pitch outing consisting of 500 feet of 5.8 to 5.9 climbing. The route was stellar, so much fun and engaging movement, we couldn’t get enough. Another memorable outing for us happened at night, as there were so many people climbing in the valley. The best way we thought up to climb an ultra popular route was to start at near sunset, when most others were finished for the day. It was such a great climb, absolutely nobody in front or behind us rushing or slowing us down. Just us the rock and the setting sun. Kyle and I finished the last 2 pitches by headlamp.
We heard weather was coming in and our plan was to head to the Sierra Eastside after Yosemite. The best way to get to the eastside is through Tioga Pass, which is closed seasonally. This winter storm coming through was going to close the pass. It was October 31 and we had a few hours left in the valley before winter was pushing us out.
So far we had only looked at The Nose of El Capitan. Today we were going to climb it, the first 135 feet of a route that is. There was nobody at the base of the Salathe route this morning, so Kyle lead up and setup a toprope for me on the first pitch. The climbing was unbelievable. Twin cracks weaving it’s way hundreds of feet up a 3,000 foot rock cliff. After the Salathe Kyle climbed Moby Dick, a great crack climb to the left. The crack starts out small, finger/finger tip sized and finishes in an offwidth (bigger than fist) he crushed it!
Time was ticking and weather was coming, we threw our gear in our packs and hoofed it back to the van. Onwards and outwards out of the valley we cruised, storm clouds and snow threatening to envelop us as we drove out. We spent 10 days in Yosemite and we hardly scratched the surface. Someday we’ll make our way back there, maybe this fall.